I Am Unitedstatesian

There’s one word that always creates heated debates while I’ve been in Chile.  It’s offensive to some, a joke to others and completely innocuous to the rest, but it’s sure to raise a debate if you ask.  So what’s this hotbutton word?  American.

In the US, most of us refer to our country as America and ourselves as Americans without a second thought.  Growing up, we just assumed that’s who we are.  It’s used offhand every day by millions of people.  Pretty much every Presidential address in my lifetime has begun with “my fellow Americans.”  It’s part of our culture.

Before I arrived in Chile, I already knew that some people found it offensive that people in the US have appropriated America to only refer to the United State because I had learned about it in a Latin American studies class in college, but I assumed that it was mostly overly politically correct people.  I had seen the famous Alfredo Jaar video from the 80s called This is Not America, but believed that only the far left cared about the term.  I was pretty clearly wrong.

Once I got here, I realized it was more widespread than I thought.  Everyone seems to have an opinion.  Some Chileans don’t care at all and refer to the US as America and its citizens as Americans without a second thought.  Others playfully pointed out that they too were Americans and other were actually offended.  I’d say that most were in the middle.  They’d prefer that the US didn’t call itself America, but weren’t really offended.  Some examples:

I was at an asado and a Chilean friend of mine asked a girl where she was from.  She said America.  He responded with a smile, “oh yea, me too.”  He told me he loves to do that, mostly as a joke, but partly to make the point to people from the US that they are not the only ones from America.  Another friend cringed when I said something about America to refer to the US and corrected me.  He wasn’t offended, but said it grates on his ears when someone from the US uses America that way.

The new US startup program is called Startup America, which is especially galling to some in Chile, as the program is basically a knock off of Startup Chile, but appropriates the name of the entire hemisphere.  Another friend posted the Alfredo Jaar video on her Facebook wall and got 10 likes in under 5 minutes.  24 hours later, there were over 100 likes and 15 comments.  She told me tons of her friends posted it on their own walls, creating a mini-viral campaign.  Most of the comments did not seem to have any vitriol behind them (see graphic below).

I’ve also seen many Chileans mostly playfully turn the globe “upsidedown” so that Chile is at the top.  The most southern province, Magallanes, even has their official symbol with Antarctica at the top of the map, not the bottom.  From my view there are only a small group on the far left that are truly, deeply offended by the term American, but there is definitely a large group of people who would prefer that people from the US didn’t say American to describe themselves.  It grates on them, but it’s not a huge deal to them.


I think it’s important to point out that we say “America”  completely offhand, and don’t mean any offense.  It’s just how we were raised.  For example, we were in Austin for South by Southwest and a very nice, stereotypical Texan sat next to us while we were drinking some beers, waiting for our table to be ready.  He struck up a conversation with our group that included two Chileans who were in town for the conference.  He was incredibly nice, shared beers with us and told us places to visit.  As his table was called he said “have a great time here and welcome to America.”

He, like 99.99% of other people from the States don’t mean anything by it.  We just don’t have any other word to call ourselves.    North American doesn’t work, the Canadians sure don’t want to be lumped in with us.  In Spanish you say estadounidense, but in English there just isn’t a word other than American.  I’ve pointed this out many times, and I think the best response came from one of my Chilean friends.  She said something along the lines of “you guys took the name, you gotta come up with something to replace it.”  So I’ve taken it on myself.  I guess I’m Unitedstatesian.

Travelogue: La Serena and Valle del Elqui

My friends Forrest and Sarah came to visit all the way from Madison, so Jesse, Forrest, Sarah and I decided to take a trip north to La Serena and Valle del Elqui.  La Serena is a town of 150,000 about 4.5 hours north of Santiago.  Along with it’s sister city of Coquimbo, it’s located on miles of wide, white sand beaches.  It reminded me of Panama City Beach, but not during spring break.  Apparently La Serena has eclipsed Viña del Mar as the top beach destination close to Santiago, but since we were there midweek, right after school started again, it was really empty and peaceful.

La Serena Apartment

We stayed at an apartment on the beach that we found on AirBnB.  Yanette, the owner, was incredibly nice.  She’s been living in La Serena for about 25 years and also owns a wine producing property northeast of the coast.  She brought us amazing grapes and raisins as a thank you for renting that were truely the best I’ve ever had.  They were sweet, plump and way better than you can get in the US.  The grapes we get less sweet, because they have to harvest them earlier to ship them to the US.

The drive up is on a four lane highway, mostly along the coast.  It reminds me a bit of highway 1 in California, with lots of hills, twists and turns.  The small towns all have goat cheese sandwiches and fruit stands along the highways, while we only have McDonalds and Taco Bell in the US.  So much better here.  I wish I had rented a little bit better car because it would have been great to go up the hills and around the bends in a real car.

Our first day, we walked down the beach and got lunch at a small restaurant.  For $7, we got a seafood empanada FULL of every kind of seafood you could think of.  Next, a seafood soup filled with oysters in a spicy cilantro broth.  The main course was fried reinata with sweet tomatoes and then dessert was super ripe honeydew melon.  Great value and great food.

Next, we went over to the Coquinbo fist market and bought mussels, scallops and a full dorada.  The fisherman cut it up into huge filets so we could cook them on the stove top.  We also got an assortment of fruit and veggies from a little stand and came back to the beach apartment to cook.

We created an amazing meal.  We started with a seafood soup with dorada, assorted seafood, aji, potato, carrots and other veggies.  Next, pineapple and pepper ceviche with mussels, scallops and dorada.  It was great.  The main course was dorada a la plancha with a salt/curry rub, curried veggies and a pineapple salsa.  Dessert was vanilla ice cream with a sweet grape and white wine sauce.  It was a great way to end the day.

Forrest and Sarah, Punta de Chorros

The next day we tried to go to Punta de Chorros to sea an island full of penguins.  After a beautiful 2 hour drive through the mountains and across a few dirt roads, our little car finally stopped at a restaurant where we had some fresh fish.  The highlight was their home made olive oil, infused with garlic and hot peppers.  We each ended up buying a half litre bottle for about $7 to take home.  Amazing.  Unfortunately, when we got to the fishing dock, the fishermen told us that they couldn’t take us because the sea was too choppy.  I think he was just being lazy and didn’t only want to take a group of 4, but it was still a great day.  We watched the waves crash on the rugged Pacific coast and then made the drive back to La Serena.

The next morning, we left early and headed into Valle del Elqui.  It started out cloudy, but it soon burned off to reveal a narrow valley filled with fruit trees, pisco distilleries and vineyards.  Every Chilean I had talked to had told me that I had to go to Valle del Elqui if I was going near La Serena and they were 100% right.  It was beautiful.

pisco factory

We stopped in Vicuña, the birthplace of Gabriela Mistral and strolled around their town square.  We ate lunch while listening to music in the town square and then had some fresh pecans and homemade icecream from a little shop on the square.  We continued onward and finally stopped in Pisco Elqui, the hear of Chile’s pisco growing region.  We toured the Mistral pisco distillery and got to see the whole process.  The tasting was interesting.  The really aged pisco tasted almost like a whiskey and was supposed to be served over ice or alone.  I’m used to piscola, so it was quite different.  After, we continued down the curvy road to Alcohuaz, doing the last 15k on a tiny dirt road.  It was a beautiful drive, ending at an eco lodge called Casona Distante.

Alejandro, Palta Sour

This place is amazing.  It’s in the middle of nowhere, no cell reception and is beautiful.  It’s on 40 acres of land in the middle of the valley and is a functioning grape growing operation.  They sell their grapes to Capel to make pisco and still raise animals and other fruit.  The lodge is built mostly of wood and the rooms are beautiful.  They have an open kitchen where you can watch or help prepare dinner and our chef Alejandro was awesome.  We got lessons on Chilean cooking and drink making and talked about food, politics and Chile.  His palta (avocado) sour was amazing, especially after adding some aji.

Casona Distante also has a nice observatory and the owner helped us look at nebulae and Saturn.  You really can see it’s rings!  Looking up into the sky and seeing millions of stars is amazing.  The night sky there was only bested by my trip to Bolivia, as we were about 2500 meters higher, so the sky was clearer.  The next day, we hung around the lodge and checked out the river that runs through the valley.  It was relaxing and beautiful, but unfortunately, we had to go back to Santiago at the end of the day.  I would have loved to stay longer, but it wasn’t possible.  I highly recommend going to Valle del Elqui for a long weekend, it was one of my favorite places I’ve been so far.

My Favorite Places in Santiago

I realized I’ve written travelogues about my trips all over the rest of the world, but not where I’ve been living for the last four months.  Here’s a list of some of my favorite places, including restaurants, bars and random places to hang out.

Restaurants

Santiago has some great restaurants, but you have to search to find them.  Google doesn’t help (all the sites are flash, so google doesn’t read the content) and there’s no Yelp here.  Here’s what I’ve uncovered in my time here:

Pad Thai – Manuel Montt.  Great Thai restaurant with a good selection of beer and authentic Thai dishes.  Their outdoor courtyard in the back is a great place for a meal.  They let you order the dishes from 1-5 on the spicy scale and I got a 3.  The waiter warned me that it was going to be super spicy and tried to get me to go down one level, but in the end I wished I had gotten a 4.  Great food.

Cuidad Vieja – Bellavista.  Amazing, interesting sandwiches and not too expensive.  Lots of beer on tap and in bottles.  Plus they have this smoked, spicy red sauce instead of ketchup made in Valdivia that in unreal.

Tiramisu – Las Condes/El Golf.  Great thin crust pizza.  A little on the expensive side, but a cool atmosphere and top notch food.  It’s always packed, no matter when you go.

Fajita Express – Providencia/Pedro de Valdivia.  For $5 I can get a big burrito and a coke.  My goto cheap restaurant.

Machu Pichu – Providencia/Manuel Montt.  Jesse and I were walking around near our hostel when we first came to Santiago and ate here our first night, as it was the first restaurant we walked by.  We’ve been back a bunch of times.  Every dish on the menu is good, but the ceviche mixto is amazing.  It comes with a candied sweet potato, which is great.

El Naturista – Centro.  Vegetarian restaurant with two locations close to my office.  I love their pebre, which goes really well with all of their dishes.  My favorite is huevos rancheros with tons of pebre.

La Piojera – Centro.  I hesitate to include La Piojera, since I’ve only gone once, but it’s a great time.  They have their famous terremotos, which are made of white wine, pineapple sorbet and some light liquor.  They are good, but I loved the meat and the hot sauce at La Piojera.  And it was cheap.

Barandiaran – Providencia/Manuel Montt.  A little more expensive than Machu Pichu, but really good.  They have a swimming pool and a beautiful terrace in their courtyard.  They do a little more upscale peruvian.

El Huerto – Providencia/Orrego Luco.  Vegetarian.  The best salads in Santiago, hands down.  Their homemade wholewheat bread and their very vegetabley pebre are great.

Domino – Everywhere.  My other goto fast food restaurant.  It’s how fast food should be.  Good ingredients, lots of choices, not expensive.  They have surprisingly good salads as well.  Underrated: get the vegetarian sandwich (avocado, tomato, cheese) with a “pila” of eggs.  It’s about $4 and really good.

Kintaro – Bellas Artes.  There are a ton of sushi restaurants in Santiago, but this one has the fewest amount of rolls with cream cheese.  If you go with a big group, they have a “sushi/sashimi boat” that comes with about 100 pieces for about $45.  It’s a good place to go before going out.  You can buy a bottle of pisco for $12, which is $2 more than in the liquor store.  Every Santiago sushi spot has rolls made of avocado, which are my new favorite.  I’m going to miss those back in the US.

Fuente Alemanda – Pedro de Valdivia and Plaza Italia. The best lomitos in Santiago.  They come with lettuce, tomato, sauerkraut, avocado, mayo and I always add tons of spicy mustard.  The bread makes the sandwich.  They are huge though and you can split them between 2 people.  Kind of touristy, but worth it.

The one in the background had less mayo…

El Chaguito – Providencia/Manuel Montt.  Ok, so not a restaurant, but Jesse and I go here 2-3x per week to buy all of our fruits and veggies.  It’s 50% off from the supermarket and waaay better quality.  We can get a huge amount of fresh produce for about $10.  They get their fresh deliveries on Mondays.

A $5 produce run. Liquor not included.

Bars

Orego Luco – Providencia.  This is a small street just of Av. Providencia near Pedro de Valdivia that has about 8 bars with outdoor tables.  It’s full every night, except Sundays.  Almost every bar has 2×1 drinks until 12am.

Any outdoor bar on Pio Nono – Bellavista.  This area is sort of like a seedy version of the terrace in Madison.  There are tons of bars with plastic red tables and chairs.  You can get a litre of beer for $2-3 and hang out with friends.  You’ll see all sorts of characters walking by, but be wary of anyone who starts randomly talking to you in English right away.  They are likely shady characters.

Most of the bars on Manuel Montt, just south of Av. Providencia.  There are tons of bars and restaurants on Manuel Montt that compete for your business.  The outdoor ones have the best settings, but the smaller ones have the best drink deals.

El Kika – Providencia/Pedro de Valdivia.  Ok, so this is less than a 2 minute walk from my apartment, but it’s got good beer, cheap food and lots of outdoor seating.  One of my friends asked me “how can you possibly live there, I’d be at elkika everyday!”

Parks

Cerro San Cristobal – Cerro San Cristobal dominates the northern skyline of the city.  It’s a really nice walk up the hill and once you get to the top you get a great view of the city and the Andes to the east.  There’s also an elevator type thing if you’re too lazy to walk.  Entrance is at the end of pio nono, but I like to walk down Pedro de Valdivia to the other entrance and walk up from there.

Cerro Santa Lucia – A large hill in the middle of Santiago with a cool old castle/look out point on the top.  Great views of the city and shorter walk up than Cerro San Cristobal.

Cerro Santa Lucia

Parque Metropolitano – Connected to Cerro San Cristobal, I love to walk up Pedro de Valdivia to the foot of Parque Metropolitano and sit in the shade.  It’s a great place to get away from the noise of the city and get some work done.  It’s also a great place for a bbq during the weekend.

Mercado Central – Very touristy, but if you avoid the guys trying to get you to eat at their restaurants, they have an amazing selection of fresh seafood for super cheap.

Seafood! Check out hose prices!

Parque Bustamante – This park runs for a few miles from the Salvador metro stop all the way down town, along the river.  I love walking though the park on my way to or from work.

Parque Bustamante, near Salvador metro

 

Plaza de Armas – The Santiago Cathedral looks like it was transplanted right out of Europe.  Really cool architecture.

Plaza de Armas. Notice the police/protesters for the Obama visit.

My rooftop – I love reading, working and hanging out on my rooftop and those of my friends.  What a great feature for an apartment complex!

I have a little more than a month left in Santiago, so if I’m missing one of your favorite places, tell me!  I’ll be sure to check it out before I go.

Looking for more high quality information about Chile? Check out my book Chile: The Expat’s Guide:

chile expat guide cover

SXSW 2011 Recap: Chile, Digital Death, Hashable and the NY Tech Scene

Last year was my first SXSW and I had a great time, but 2011 was even better.  Here’s a quick rundown on my SXSWi and some of the big themes I saw.

Chile is on the tech map

I was lucky enough to moderate the Chile Technology Summit with Juan Pablo Tapia, David Basulto, Paige Brown and Leonardo Maldonado.  We talked about the Chilean technology ecosystem, entrepreneurship, social media, Chilean startup success stories and some of the government programs that have really helped Chile’s tech community.  It was really fun to be able to tell people I met that I’d been living in Santiago, Chile for the past four months because just about everyone I met had heard of Startup Chile.  It was a great ice breaker and allowed me to talk about more cheery topics than digital death.

I can tell you 100% that Startup Chile should already be viewed as a success for the simple fact that almost every VC, angle, entrepreneur and social media person knew of Chile and the program.  Last year, I bet only 5% of SXSW attendees would have know anything about Chile.  Add that to the fact that of our $40,000, at least half will be going directly back into the Chilean economy and that between Jesse and me 8 friends/family will visit, Chile is making it’s money back.

Digital Death is Growing Quickly

We celebrated our 1 year anniversary of our launch on Monday.  Last year, Jesse gave a talk  about our industry to a crowd of 20.  This year, there were over 150 people in attendance, and Twitter was abuzz during our session.  We’ve been featured in over 100 top media outlets and have seen the number of companies who are doing something with data and death online grow from 5 to almost 50.  The Digital Beyond wrote a book.  1000Memories got $2.5 in funding from some of the top VCs in world and whenever I told people about Entrustet, people either had heard of us by name, or had heard a story about the industry.  I got to meet at least six of our users and randomly ran into people who had checked out it.  I expect the industry to keep growing quickly and can’t wait to see what happens at next year’s SXSW.

You're Dead, Your Data Isn't: What Happens Now?

Hashable was the big hit

I’d used Hashable in the past, but didn’t like it until this year’s SXSW.  The first night, I met Mike, the founder, who personally sold me on why I needed to download the app.  I ended up using it multiple times each day.  It was funny, whenever I met someone from NYC, they always wanted to do Hashable, but the adoption rate from Silicon Valley entrepreneurs was way less.  I don’t buy that the mainstream will use Hashable as a “checkin for people,” ie every time you meet someone, but I can see it catching on big time for exchanging e-business cards.   Hashable made my business cards obsolete for most people.  The only downside is that Hashable strips the personality of your business cards into about 100 characters available in a hashable tweet.  I get comments on our business cards all the time and I enjoy seeing the creativity in business cards each year at SXSW.

The NY Tech Mafia

Another big change from this year to last year was the emergence of the NY Tech scene.  There is so much energy coming out of NYC, not to mention startups, VC money and developer talent and it was interesting to see.  NYC based entrepreneurs were more likely to feel like they were a part of something bigger.  It seemed like they thought they were part of a movement, part of a nascent industry or an important moment in history.  They community seemed much closer than many of the San Fran entrepreneurs I met.  I think it’s great that technology startups are happening in other places than just the bay area.  I really enjoyed seeing the energy and genuine excitement from the NYC entrepreneurs.  It also seemed that many of the NYC entrepreneurs were more focused on using tech to something, compared to some of the San Fran startups who were more interested in the pure tech side.  Both are very valuable and I’m not picking sides.  It was fun to see as an outsider and a marked difference from last year.

There are so many group messaging companies

And I don’t see the use.  I first used a group messaging system two years ago for a friends bachelor party and it was great.  We had a group of 8 of us, all doing the same thing and on the same schedule.  It was great.  At SXSW, I was in multiple groups (or pods) and just got annoyed by all of the messages.  Most were not relevant to me.  The groups were too big, our schedules were different.  It just wasn’t helpful.  I can see group messaging being something you turn on for specific events, with specific groups, but I don’t see it for everyday use.  There is a ton of money in the space right now and it will be interesting to see if Facebook integrates group messaging into Facebook groups.

Bubble?

There were so many companies doing “social something” or “x for facebook” that by the end we were joking around that we were going to start the Kayak for canoes and rent boats in Lake Austin.  I think startups have become hot and that there are lots of people starting businesses now just for the money, which can be dangerous.  I think there are bubbles in certain types of Internet businesses, but don’t think its completely systemic, like the initial dot com bust.  It’ll be interesting to see what happens!

Cool Startups+Things I Saw at SXSW

SparkRelief – Crowd Sourced disaster relief.  They launched a site that allows anyone in Japan to offer housing to those displaced, for free.  Could be a cool model to empower citizens to take part in their own disaster relief.

Startup America – While I would prefer less rhetoric and government chest puffing, there are clearly very smart people working on this initiative and President Obama seems to be behind it.  I was left the panel optimistic about a part of government for the first time in a long time.  Please stop saying “winning the future” though.  If Bush would have said that, everyone would have (rightly) made fun of him.

Data – It’s amazing what people are doing with data.  I saw countless panels, companies and entrepreneurs doing cool stuff with data.  It’s going to be fun to see the next level of services created when data becomes ubiquitous.

Artsicle – Lets you rent art, sort of like netflix and connects artists with the people who are buying new art.  Cool idea.

#sxswla – Latin America was well represented.  But I’d like to see more panels next year featuring people from all over the world, not just in separate tracks.  Sort of like with the inclusion of a ton more women this year.

Flavors.me – Amazing design and simple personal pages.  Mom, when you read this, I bet you could set up a site if you wanted.  I’d know the Flavors guys from before, but it was great to meet in person.

Grubly – Cool startup that connects people who love to cook, with those who love to eat